Tag Archives: wales

Hello Scotland

After packing up, driving two hours and dropping the car back to its owners Thrifty in Wolverhampton, we hopped on the train and headed north to Edinburgh. The train was a bit squishy and quite warm, and although the booking page had assured us we were booking two window seats facing each other over a table, in reality we had two window seats one behind the other. We nabbed one of the aisle seats so we could sit together, and I sat there holding my breath at each stop waiting for someone to tell me that was their seat, as people seemed to be doing at every other seat!

We arrived at Waverley Station as it was raining (of course) so we hailed a taxi to take us the short drive to the hotel. We’re staying at one of the Holiday Inn Expresses, and it’s very boring and anonymous, but still it’s kind of nice to be in somewhere boring after all the “character” hotels we’ve stayed at! The outside is lovely anyway, as the building is an “historic” one. There was a moment of panic on check-in, as they couldn’t find our reservation, which I had dutifully carried out on their website, and prepaid! Thank goodness I had the reservation confirmation with me, as apparently their reservations department hadn’t passed it on. Only eight months of notice, thanks guys! We managed to get a room at least, and they gave us a drinks voucher, which was nice.

As we were settling in, there was some noise out on the street, and noticed they’d put on fireworks, obviously to welcome us to town. Yay!

There are the occasional creaky “character” floorboards we’ve come to expect, and breakfast is a bunfight (almost literally) as there is nowhere near enough space for everyone booked into the hotel to eat breakfast. Wonderful shower though – awesome pressure and nice and hot.

After checking in we wandered out into the chilly evening to find some food. I was craving something not hearty or traditionally British or Moroccan after the huge servings of meat we’ve been having so far on this holiday, so we were looking for Thai or Chinese or something similar. We found the No. 1 Chinese Restaurant a couple of blocks from the hotel, and set on combination stir fry with gusto! Yay for crunchy vegies!

This morning after the breakfast skirmish, we wandered around to the Royal Mile. Because it’s New Year’s Eve, there were thousands of tourists wandering around. We walked up to Edinburgh Castle, but were put off by the huge crowds.

We had a look in some of the souvenir shops, and contemplated tartans, but R already has a traditional kilt from his last trip, and my family doesn’t seem to have any affiliations. I’ll pick up a few souvenirs before we leave though. We did see dog kilts, which would be a hoot next Christmas on the family doggies, but the largest size they had as for Scottish Terriers, and all our dogs are much bigger than that!

After wandering down the Royal Mile to see Holyrood Palace, we started walking up it again in search of lunch.

After popping into a whisky shop to R could taste a couple of new and different expressions (the shop had a resident dog, Maggie), we ended up stopping at the oldest pub on the Royal Mile, which was first opened in 1740-something. Not bad! Unsurprisingly, they had some “traditional” Scottish food, so R had a lamb hotpot, and I explored the “Stovies” – basically potato and beef, mashed together. Imagine cottage pie mooshed. Tasted pretty good, but bland and salty at the same time.

After lunch we wended our way through the ever-increasing crowds, through a shopping centre (and over a scarily see-through pedestrian bridge – my fear of heights was on full alert!) and back to the hotel to prepare for our Hogmanay evening.

 

 

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Wales Day 2

We spent today driving around Wales some more, taking in the amazing scenery, soaking up the cold (uhh) and exploring some of the sights in search of somewhere to say a final goodbye to R’s mum.

We began with a hearty breakfast, of course! I had the smoked salmon and scrambled eggs, and R chose the big Welsh breakfast: eggs, bacon, tomato, black sausage and laver bread (boiled seaweed. hmm.)

This breakfast of champions took us hundreds of miles through Snowdonia National Park to find where the Mt Snowdon Railway started. The railway is closed for winter, but we thought it would be a good spot to view the parts of Snowden which aren’t currently obscured by low-lying cloud. On the way we also saw a hydro-electric plant, which looks pretty amazing, and drove up and down a mountain including some nice sharp turns on cliffs in the rain (not really one of my favourite things to do, as those who’ve been reading the Morocco posts will know, even if this time I was driving!)

We passed by a lovely spot on a hillside with a view of a river, rough-hewn mountains, cliffs and rolling hills, and R thought that would be a nice place to scatter some of his mum’s ashes. We’ve been carrying them with us for such an eventuality, as she had been on holidays in Snowdonia when she was a child and had liked the idea of living on there after she passed. We stopped and waited for the other tourists to finish taking photos, but they seemed to be hanging on forever, so we just ignored them and did what we’d come to do. I’m sure she will find peace there.

 

Then we turned slightly and headed towards Portmeirion, the strange village where The Prisoner was filmed. It’s quite a bizarre place, with vividly coloured buildings and random monuments here and there. It looks like a place designed by kids – colourful, lots of different shapes, and statues and monuments with not a lot of cohesion. I think the producers of The Prisoner took advantage of the atmosphere that was already there, rather than the other way around! The gift shops there have quite a few Number Six souvenirs, including the fabulous bubble chair! You can even get your own blow-up weather balloon to re-enact those terrifying chase sequences!

Then it was back to Tyddyn Llan to recuperate before dinner.

I’ve never eaten at a Michelin star restaurant before, but I think I was expecting a little more. The food is pretty good, but not more than any of the “pretty good” restaurants at home. I’ve eaten at a lot of Australian restaurants which are equal or better than this one to my taste, like Neil Perry’s Rockpools, or any of the Made Establishment‘s places in Melbourne. This place is such a study in contrast between the lovely food and the good but not great rooms, that it’s a bit hard to quantify it while staying here. We’re in a “standard” room. Maybe the “superior” ones are better, but you’d still have the incredibly noisy creaking floors and not-great water pressure, even if the rooms or beds are a bit bigger and with nicer furniture. Rather then recommend it wholeheartedly, I’d say definitely come for dinner if you’re in the area, but otherwise don’t go out of your way to stay here unless you want to have a few drinks with dinner. Maybe it’s just that Michelin don’t cover Australia! The panna cotta with figs and lavender honey is pretty amazing though, and there was a much better spread of hors d’oeuvres that were gluten free, tonight! Another yum dinner!

 

 

 

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Wales (and food)

We left Bath this morning after another large Full English brekky. Tummies full, we wended our way through the backstreets of Bath at the command of the GPS, who I swear has homicidal tendencies (or at least a sadistic sense of humour). We may have also managed to scratch the doorhandle of the hire car. Good thing we went for the extra insurance!

After many winding roads and venturing in, then out, then back into Wales, we made our way to Tyddyn Llan, a Michelin-star restaurant with a hotel attached, in Llandrino, near Snowdonia National Park. We had decided that since we were going to only be in Wales for two days, why not make the most of it and go for some nice food!

The hotel/restaurant is in an old building whose floor creaks terribly, and has a pronounced list in the staircase. Even tiptoeing down the corridor produces a series of creaks and groans from the floorboards – but hey, the food is good!

When we were shown into the lounge to have nibbles and a drink before dinner, I was quite worried at the difference in the “gluten free” starter and the normal one. Mine’s the one on the right. Hmm. Not a good start. However, they picked up extremely quickly, letting me know which dishes were GF or able to be made GF, which only knocked out a third of the menu, and presenting me with a gluten free bread roll fresh out of the oven. Now that’s more like it!

I started with the Scottish scallops, which were divine. R’s game terrine was pretty amazing too (hmm, might have that tomorrow night). We followed those with turbot on a bed of leek risotto (hey, we’re in Wales: must eat leeks!) and monkfish with mashed potato. Nummy. Then I had the pannacotta with fresh figs (not locally sourced unlike most of the other food, I would imagine!) and R devoured the ginger steamed pud with custard. Ahh…

We tried to tiptoe upstairs, but may not have been terribly successful. The hotel cat, who had barely lifted a whisker in greeting earlier, looked up in disgruntlement as we trundled past its sleeping place after dinner.

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Filed under United Kingdom, Wales