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Scotland continued…

We took another ferry off Mull, but this time from Tobermory to Kilchoan. The ferry was much smaller, and only had two cars on it during our ride, so there wasn’t much camouflage for the behemoth’s alarm going off every time we rolled over a wave. Which we did quite a bit!Nevertheless, we made it to Kilchoan and drove off without incident.

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A little jaunt through Scotland

This school holidays I’ve piggy backed on a friend’s holiday as she’s in Scotland visiting family. So we’re wandering around the West Coast for a week or so.

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Plymouth visit – and my bad driving

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At Mapperton House

After Cuba, I’d planned with R to visit central Europe, stopping into Germany and Poland, as each of us had visited one of those countries but not the other. Since R had a long layover in New York on his way, I decided I would take advantage of a direct HAV-LGW flight and pop in to the UK to visit my great aunt for a few days, and meet R later in Krakow.

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Plymouth

After finishing the convention, we hired a car (a teeny weeny 2-door Skoda that barely fit our luggage) and hightailed it out of the city to visit my great aunt J in Plymouth. It was certainly a different experience driving from the East End than last time driving from Gatwick airport, not least because the unhinged GPS decided on a route which took us straight through the middle of London at 4pm in the afternoon, instead of using the Ring Road, which might have saved us some time, and definitely would have saved me grey hairs!

We did end up doing a great sightseeing “tour” on the way the GPS took – past the V&A, around Trafalgar Square, along the Thames… eek!

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London Day 8 – Last day!

Another busy day of cramming sightseeing activities in.

We began the day by wandering through Hyde Park again, but this time on a eastwards journey, strolling past more squirrels, people riding horses, and pigeons, and stopping on Oxford St to pick up more (more!!) souvenirs for people at home (we’re really working hard to keep the economy going here!) Then headed down to Piccadilly Circus to buy tickets to the show we were planning on seeing tonight with L and T: Jersey Boys. On the way we ticked off another must-do: riding on a red double decker bus!

Our next goal was to walk down through Trafalgar Square and along Whitehall to eyeball Downing Street, the Houses of Parliament and Westminster Abbey, although the last had to be put off until after lunch, as we met A at a pub nearby for a bite to eat.

After fortifying ourselves with a Caesar salad and meat pie respectively, we headed off to wonder at Westminster Abbey. While I was initially a bit reluctant to pay the sixteen pounds entrance fee, it was really amazing. As well as the tombs of various monarchs, there were memorials to many of Britain’s noteworthy writers and poets, such as Shakespeare and Jane Austen, as well as scientists like Darwin and Newton. Plus the building itself is amazing, with hugely high carved ceilings and stone floors worn down with millions of feet over hundreds of years.

Plus, while we were wandering about, I bumped into two ex-students, M and M who are currently on a post-school junket around Europe from the sounds of things, staying with relatives here and there. A junket that involves coming and seeing cultural history like Westminster Abbey – pretty classy!

Then it was time to meet L and T for dinner and the show. We tried an Indian place near the Prince Edward Theatre, and while the food was good, it took them forever to bring it (we were in a bit of a hurry to get to the show) and then they asked us for a tip after paying for the meal! A bit rich…

The show itself was amazing. I wasn’t terribly familiar with The Four Seasons, but knew a few of their songs. The story itself was interesting, looking at the relationships and relationship breakdowns in the group over the years, and their rise to fame. The singing was fantastic! Apparently the guy playing Frankie Valli has a cd out, so it’d be worthwhile looking him up – a really amazing voice. The rest of the cast were great too – the actor playing Tommy Devito was fabulous and really played the crowd. This was needed, as he was the first of the revolving “narrators” of the story.

The staging really blew me away. They had a pretty simple set, but with various signs and props that came down from the roof or popped up from the floor, and lighting was used effectively, too. One scene we “joined them on stage”, as the back of the stage was lit with flashing bulbs to simulate a crowd, and the actors played to the back, with hot spotlights on us being “back stage”. Really really effective. It was a great show and I was sorry we’d not made it to more shows while we were here!

Back at the hotel we started packing for the trip home tomorrow. Even with an extra small case and Emirates’ generous 30kg/pp allowance we’re going to be squeezing it a bit – we weighed the bags and between us we have 55kg!

 

 

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London Day 7

Today was started with a quick phone call to Emirates to see if we could snag a last-minute points upgrade on one of the legs on our homeward trip, and YAY even though they weren’t available on the online upgrade, they had two available on the phone. Goodbye frequent flyer points, hello business class on the A380! Back to economy for the long-haul leg, but I’m happy to get part-way there.

The rest of the day was spent being extremely touristy – we started out walking through Green Park to Buckingham Palace for the Changing of the Guards, would you believe! It was packed out, and people kept trying to squeeze in closer to the walls, even though when they were squeezing in front of us, all they could see was a better view of the pillar in front of the wall!

Even so, the ceremony and music and excitement in the air made it a fun occasion. We weren’t intrigued enough though, to hang around for the band’s third track after all the ceremonial walking around a lot, so we said hello to a few police people on horses and wandered off again.

 

Next destination of all true tourists – Harrods. I was pretty impressed. They had sports cars (of course), lots of big name stuff, and an entire hall devoted to chocolate and tea. Plus a chocolate cafe! What’s not to like? Well, the prices were certainly astronomical on some things – a pineapple for instance, was 14 pounds. Hmm. On the other hand, I cast my eye over the MAC cosmetics and I thought I saw that the eyeshadows were only 12 pounds – less than $20 when here they’re $32!

In any case, I picked up a few suitable “harrods” emblazoned gifts for people back home, and also found a set of the placemats from the gorgeous designs I mentioned the other day, at half price! They are the cheese-themed ones (not on the website – must be old stock) rather than the personality-plus-plus cows and pig ones I adored, but they’re still great! And heavy, as I found out after schlepping them around all day.

Next stop: The British Library to have a look at some cool books. We certainly found them – another Shakespeare First Folio, one of Jane Austen’s notebooks, the Magna Carta, one of the first Gutenberg bibles, some amazing old illuminated texts like more bibles and other sacred texts, and even the words to The Beatles’ “A Hard Day’s Night” as first written by John Lennon on one of Julian’s first birthday cards! No photos allowed unfortunately…

We headed back to the hotel to dump my Harrods plunder, then headed out to Fleet to visit cousin E again. After braving the commuter trains at rush hour, we met at a lovely pub, The Heron On The Lake, which unfortunately had only two ciders, both of which I could get at home. Nevertheless, a salubrious spot.

E took us back to her place for dinner, a yummy risotto. It was SO nice to have a home-cooked meal after eating out for so long! The bottle of red we shared also ensured a voluble evening, especially from me. I was particularly amazed at the treasured to be found in the Argos catalogue. Who would have thought you could get a Nerf automatic machine gun?? Three rounds a second! Pity you’d need a good few of the “dart” belts. I can just imagine someone with a bandolier-style belt filled with Nerf darts. Go ahead, make my day!

The trains were a lot quieter on the way back, but we managed to share a carriage with a drunken party of darts-players, strangely enough, who were waving a poster they’d nabbed stating “Go on, play darts!”. We all arrived back in London safe and sound!

 

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London Day 6

Since The Globe was apparently open again today we decided that was our main priority!

First we headed to the Tate Britain, as R wanted to visit the Pre-Raphaelites again, and there’s a handy ferry that goes Tate to Tate (the Tate Modern is the big ugly building right next to the Globe – handy!) The TB have reorganised since R was last there, and the Pre-Raphs weren’t handily located in one place, but mainly weren’t even hung! Waterhouse’s The Lady of Shalott, Rosetti’s Monna Vanna, Millais’ Ophelia (and Sargent’s Ellen Terry as Lady Macbeth which almost counts but not quite) were the only ones there!

We thought we’d not even get to see these ones, as when we were wandering through the early 20th Century gallery, we noticed the next room was blocked off as there was a film crew in there! Perfectly timed, though, as after a minute or two in discussion with the gallery attendant, we watched with big grins as the film crew dismantled their bits and pieces and let us in. I think we must have used up the bad museum/gallery mojo last week! (Touch wood!!!)

After drooling over the PreRaphs, we wandered through to the Romantics exhibition, which has a LOT of Turner, as well as one or two of his contemporaries here and there. This was really interesting, as I’d looked at Romanticism a bit at uni, but only as it related to literature, so the artistic interpretation was a new angle.

Then we walked down to the Thames to catch the ferry to Bankside, where the Tate Modern and The Globe sit. We started talking to a lady who was walking a baby in a pram and a big puppy (who looked like a Bernese Mountain Dog – biiiiig puppy!) who was very excited that I wanted to give him cuddles. So much so that he managed to get out of the nose strap part of his collar, which caused no end of consternation. Whoops. Ah well, he was still attached to the lead and all was well in the end.

The ferry was a very civilised way of getting from A to B, floating gently through the water, watching the sights slip smoothly past.

The Globe was pretty much everything I’d expected. There’s a great exhibition inside the Centre which gives lots of details about Shakespeare’s life and how life and theatre worked in Elizabethan times, and how the Globe theatre works to keep a lot of detail of their productions authentic, like the costume design and construction. I was amazed that it was nearly 50 years between the founder’s first idea and the theatre being opened, despite it being an amazing idea. Why wasn’t there some kind of monument to Shakespeare in London, as he is such a notable figure in London’s history?

In any case, we went out to the theatre itself for the “tour”, which was a lady telling us a few things about how the building was built and that we weren’t allowed onto the stage, while we eyeballed a group of kids on an “education” tour who were allowed on the stage! Ah well, we did climb into the audience and sat in the in-demand middle tier of seating for a bit.

All eyes were drawn downwards as we walked through the “piazza” outside the theatre, as one of the early fundraising schemes was to carve donors’ names into the pavers. We saw, among many others, Vivien Leigh, Charlton Heston, Laurence Olivier, and even the Patrick Stewart Appreciation Society!

After saying goodbye to our guide, we plundered the gift shop. They have a lot of very cool things there, such as magnets and badges with great quotes on them, play-themed tshirts and mugs etc. I was very tempted by the blood-soaked “Macbeth” mug. I think that would have gone down a treat at morning tea at work, but the problem is always getting breakables home safe! Mugs are such a difficult shape…

Mid-afternoon we stopped for a hearty pub lunch at a “traditional” pub nearby, getting back onto the potato wagon well and truly with a bucketload of chips. What could I have been thinking, not eating any potato yesterday?

The rest of the day was pretty uneventful, catching up on the laundry again and heading over the road to a rival hotel restaurant for dinner and making plans for tomorrow. How many of the last-minute sights can we catch? There’s only two days left!

 

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London Day 5

Today we headed out of the city to catch up with my cousin E who’s lived in England for a good few years now.

We met at Hampton Court and headed off to visit Hampton Court Palace, home of Henry VIII, amongst others. Along with the palace, they also have extensive gardens, a maze, and even an ice skating rink and a carousel! What fun!

We wandered for a while, taking in the unseasonably early flowering bulbs that were raising their heads (hello daffodils!) and admiring the formal gardens which had just been replanted for spring, before deciding that if we wanted to admire gardens, Kew Gardens was probably the best bet, since it was nearby.

We stopped off at M&S for a picnic lunch on the way, and were sidetracked by the terribly interesting TK Maxx, home of many discounted clothes and accessories. We picked up a new carry-on case while we were there, as our various souvenir shopping bouts have maxed out our current bags!

Kew was pretty cold, but we managed to have our picnic lunch under the supervision of various seagulls who were desperate for our salad leftovers, before hightailing it into the gift shop to warm up and get (you guessed it) more pressies for people at home!

The rest of our gardens visit consisted of walking very briskly between the greenhouses to get into the warmth. The Princess of Wales Conservatory had about 10 different climactic areas with heaps of different plants – from cacti to ferns to carnivorous plants! The other greenhouse we spent time at was the Palm House, which as you’d expect, had LOTS of palms, plus a marine exhibit in the basement. It’s a pretty amazing building, not least because it was built over 150 years ago!

By the time afternoon tea time rolled around, it was getting dark and close to the time the park closed, so we hightailed it back to E’s car, accompanied by the sound of a helicopter doing laps of the sky above us. We weren’t sure if this was the Kew version of flicking the lights off and on again in a nightclub to get people to leave, or what. It certainly added to the urgency of finding an exit!

Then it was back on the tube to the hotel before taking a stroll up to Paddington Station to have sushi for dinner. The Yo Sushi place was just closing when we arrived, so their sushi was a bit dated. Nevertheless, it hit the spot, and we picked up fruit and yoghurt at M&S again for dessert. Kinda getting back to usual meal habits in preparation to heading home later this week…

 

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London Day 4 – Happy Birthday to me

After waking up to many birthday wishes and a Skype call from home, we celebrated my birthday by hitting the markets.

We started with Camden Markets, which were quite interesting to begin with, but then they seemed to be the same four or five shops repeated ad nauseum. There were some interesting Nepalese multi-coloured clothes which I liked, but they were the wrong shape for me, bajillions of goth-y shops with nice-looking corsets which had good busks and some spring steel (by the feel) to reinforce the lacing, but the merely spiral boning around the rest of the corset (too flimsy). Otherwise, lots of tshirts, souvenirs and belt buckle shops. Also random large horse statues!

We ate lunch here, fast food Mexican, overlooking the Camden Lock while sitting on Vespa seats (weird, yes) before having a quick look at some Doc Martens shops, then heading back onto the tube.

The next destination was to look at Tower Bridge and wander along the Thames to The Globe Theatre. The first part of this was easy – pretty hard to miss the Tower Bridge, really! The second part was complicated, partially because when we decided to walk over London Bridge to the other side of the Thames, the best bridge to return over was the Millennium Bridge.

One small note about the Millennium Bridge – it’s got open sides. We’ve talked about my fear of heights a bit before, right? What makes it worse – if I can see through the sides of whatever I’m walking across! Even so, the bridge was just wide enough and had enough decorative poles hanging off the side of it to make it manageable, even though I thought it wasn’t going to happen! A nice cupful of caramelised nuts at the beginning did help, I must admit.

Once we reached the other side, another challenge arose. The Globe was shut this weekend because of site works! What??? First the V&A closes the fashion exhibit, and now The Globe is closed, and on my birthday as well?? Argh! At least it’s open again next week, so I should hopefully be able to get there this trip. Phew.

Since the nearest tube station was near the Borough Market, we decided to wander up there and see what was happening. Although I don’t watch Market Kitchen religiously, it’s always fun to go somewhere you’ve seen on the telly, and it did always look like the markets had great food and drink!

We were pretty amazed at the wares being sold – from farm fresh “raw” milk, to cheese and home-cured sausages, to baked goods and mulled cider, we wandered with our mouths open. We tried the milk, I had some hot chai, some spiced mulled wine, and R tried a traditional pork pie. We saw gorgeously “food” themed ceramics and table linen from Richard Bramble, which was really eye-catching, but we didn’t think we could bring any more ceramic home without breaking some of it! As we were leaving, I spied Neal’s Yard Dairy, place of all good cheese. We tried a couple of different cheese and ended up buying some young brie and some slightly more aged Ardrahan, from Ireland. (Of course, not having a fridge in our hotel room means we’ve taken great pains to keep it cool, hanging the bag out the window from the window handles. Cross fingers that the squirrels we saw from the window earlier don’t take a liking to cheese!)

Since we were heading out to my birthday dinner at Pollen Street Social, it was time to head back to the hotel to freshen up.

Dinner was really, really lovely. I think it was the best dinner we’ve had on this trip, which is saying a lot! Not only is it a Michelin starred restaurant, it prides itself on “relaxed dining” – wear what you are comfortable in and eat what you want. Great, delicious, yummy food, attentive and friendly wait-staff and at least 2/3 of the clientele were wearing jeans. Gluten free was easy – R had let them know in advance so they’d organised GF bread and had made sure they could work with the menu.

We looked at the tasting menu, and while that was amazing, the two dishes we really liked on the a la carte menu weren’t included, so that was ruled out. We were started with an amuse bouche of olives and pork scratchings with two dips – a smoked cod and garlic, and a pear and vinegar. Delicious!

Then came our entrees. I chose the lightly smoked salmon, which was huge – the size of a respectable main course salmon fillet! It was barely smoked, and tasted close to sashimi, with a hint of smoke behind it. This was served with radish, creamed avocado and some little diced squares of something yummy. Deee-lish! R started with deer tartare, which he said was amazing as well.

We asked the sommelier to recommend wines for us, and she advised some whites for entree and reds for mains, as we were both having red meat.  It turns out her husband is Australian, so she was quite knowledgeable about Australian wines as well, which helped make us feel very at home.

The main meal for me was rack of lamb, which was divine, accompanied by aubergine and a few other yummy vegies. Really, really good, and the meat was melt-in-your-mouth good. R chose ox-cheek, which he was also in raptures about.

The dessert menu, while extensive, seemed more about cold dishes than a variety more suited to winter, but they were very delicious too. I had the “lemon meringue” which was lemon and lime meringue icecream. It tasted the way icecream cakes used to, back when they were more cream than “ice confection”! R’s rice pudding hit the spot too, and was much more suited to the season. We finished the meal with a serve of Jason Atherton’s chocolates, which were served from a large wooden box which opened out in layers like a fishing tackle or tool box! Lots of drama! And delicious, too, of course.

When we’d arrived the waitress gave me a key to a “special gift” at the end of the night, which was such a great idea. There was a bit of running around when we asked for the bill, because our waiter told us they had wanted to organise something gluten free for my goodbye gift, and they were SOOOO apologetic that they hadn’t organised a birthday cupcake for me to take home with me. (Hey, I was just happy they’d got bread!)  In the box we found “Breakfast on us”: two tiny little friands and a gourmet tea bag. What a lovely way to finish, and what a fabulous end to my birthday.

 

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London Day 3

Today was another museum day, as we spent most of the afternoon at the British Museum.

R made sure we saw the Big Ticket items first: The Rosetta Stone and The Parthenon Marbles.

The Rosetta Stone looks like a big rock, mainly obscured by other people’s heads and is enlivened by people trying to elbow you out of the way so they can take pictures of themselves in front of it. We went around the back instead, so we could have an unimpeded view.

The Parthenon Marbles were more my cup of tea, having studied them at uni. Seeing them all there was pretty mind-blowing, and I did love the nasturtiums cast on Greece for having the temerity to actually want them back!

We also saw lots of Egyptian mummies, the Lewis Chessmen, and the Portland Vase which I also remembered studying at uni – so very cool. The Reading Room (the cool round building in the middle) has begun to be used for (paying) special exhibits, so we didn’t end up going in there, even though we climbed all the stairs.

After leaving (through the gift shop of course… you too can take home a life-sized plaster head of the horse of Selene from the Parthenon pediment for only 1650 pounds. Plus shipping of course!) we wandered down to Drury Lane, home of theatre. We stopped for a drink in the Lowlander Grand Cafe, on the erroneous prediction that it was a cafe (it’s actually a pub) and tried some beer (the raspberry beer tastes nothing like beer, by the way, which is good!) and chips and took in the dramatic atmosphere (we were on Drury Lane after all, even if we weren’t in a theatre) before heading back to the hotel to refresh before meeting L, an old buddy from home, for a (another) drink and dinner.

We met in Piccadilly and detoured to one of the Slug and Lettuce pubs, which was warm and served cold drinks. After a couple of ciders, we wandered through Chinatown, trying to decide which of the many very similar restaurants we would bestow our custom onto. Choosing The Crispy Duck simply because it had a great name (without Pagoda or Dragon in the title), we sat down for a yummy meal. R, emboldened by the offallicious delights of the night before, decided to try the Octopus With Pig Organs, a dish which sent shudders down L and my spines. The waiter was similarly surprised, and went do far to doublecheck – “You want… with ears? and tongue?” It actually mostly wasn’t that bad. I’m gaining an appreciation for tongue, in a small corner of the gamut of offal, although there were bits (ear maybe?) that were just wrong. Ick. Needless to say, we didn’t finish that. The king prawn omelette and garlic bok choy was muuuuch better.

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