Tag Archives: mekong delta

Mekong Delta to Saigon

Wednesday dawned bright an early, helped along by the roosters, dogs, motor-boats and other early risers…

"pork belly" rice cake

“pork belly” rice cake

Breakfast was amazing, especially when contrasted with yesterday’s! We had fresh baguette and homemade wild strawberry jam (except me, and I had a great pho style noodle soup), “pork belly” rice cake, which has layers of various consistencies of sticky rice to resemble pork belly, tapioca dumplings, gorgeous little lady finger bananas and green tea and coffee with condensed milk. Amaaazing!

Floating market

Floating market

We left the lovely Mrs Ten and her family, and took the boat across to see the Floating Market. Unfortunately, it was a lot smaller than we had anticipated, with only a few boats there selling a small variety of fruits and vegetables. The big sellers seemed to be pineapples and sweet potatoes at this point, with the occasional coconut or other vegies.

Herb garden

Herb garden

It was interesting to see these boats though. As well as stringing the washing up across the deck, most had a small herb pot or two somewhere on the boat – obviously fresh herbs are so very important!

Rice paper factory

Rice paper factory

The next stop was to hop off the boat at a small town to visit a rice-paper factory (literally a sweatshop – really hot and sticky, with people working there for 12 hours a day on the same thing, either cooking the paper, stacking it, counting it, packing it… makes teaching seem very exciting and slack!)

Fish sauce vats

Fish sauce vats

Our next visit was to see the fish sauce factory – ohhhhh stinky. They ferment the fish in great vats in order to get the signature taste of Vietnam… I’m happy to buy it in a nice sealed bottle, after smelling that!

It smelled... aromatic!!

It smelled… aromatic!!

The last stop in the village was at a place which made various sweets – coconut toffee, puffed rice mixed with caramel, black sesame and nut toffee, and a few more, They had a couple of pet snakes here as well, but we weren’t offered a cuddle. T assured me they weren’t just being grown to be pickled in the snake wine!

Coconut toffee

Coconut toffee

The puffed rice was a pretty amazing process – one guy throws a bowl of rice into a huge wok filled with hot clean black river silt, mixed with a bit of oil, over a very hot fire, and stirs it around until the rice has puffed like popcorn!

Puffed rice

Puffed rice

We had a bit of a shopping binge here, with lots of great stuff like coconut wood utensils, the various sweets made in the factory (R bought a pack of the durian flavoured puffed rice snack, of course, while I stuck with the coconut toffees)

Coconut juice

Coconut juice

Then it was back on the boat to drink coconuts and head back to meet our bus to drive back to Saigon. By then the cough which had started in the morning had developed into a nice head cold, and I was downing cold’n’flu.

I still had enough stamina to hit the markets with the group when we got back to Saigon, but they were a bit of a disappointment. There were about five shops repeated ad nauseum throughout the markets, with overpriced stuff, much more expensive than elsewhere we’d been. Mental note – next time, buy the souvenir-y stuff in Hoi An or Hanoi!

Last cooking class

Last cooking class

Next up was our last cooking class. This was the class that we actually made all of our dishes, rather than just one or two, even though everything was already prepared and cut up for us. We started by making squid salad, then claypot lemongrass fish, then the instructing chef made a “light egg soup”, with tomato and egg and chicken stock.

It was all pretty tasty, but the kitchen was incredibly hot. Given I was already not feeling great, I was completely dead by the end of the night! Instead of joining the others for a celebratory end-of-tour drinks, I had to return to the hotel to sleep. The head cold had seriously taken hold! It seems that I made the right decision though – the group said that where they’d gone, the Rex, was incredibly expensive.

Obligatory cat picture, taken on the way back to the bus

Obligatory cat picture, taken on the way back to the bus

By Thursday morning I’d decided that I was cursed in South East Asia – just like in Cambodia in December, I’d gotten sick! Today was our moving day to the Intercontinental, and basically all I did all day was sleep and down Codral. Feeling a bit better now, so I’m hoping for our second last day tomorrow I’ll be back on track. I have to say, the Intercontinental is worth the price hike – the room is lovely (and we had an upgrade), we can use the executive lounge for evening canapés and drinks, and they gave us a fruit basket and a gift on arrival. Plus there’s a real-sized bathtub!

The view from our room at the Intercontinental

The view from our room at the Intercontinental

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Saigon to Mekong Delta

An early start this morning, heading off to the Mekong Delta area for a homestay and some local specialties. Unfortunately the hotel, as well as being infested with ants, decided that I’d taken beer from the minibar and also the slippers from the room! It took quite a few denials and T stepping in to convince them otherwise. I certainly don’t recommend Asian Ruby 3 for anyone staying in Saigon. The breakfast is enough to put anyone off, even without the rest – rubbery eggs, raw bacon, soft “crispy” spring rolls…

Uh-oh...

Uh-oh…

So eventually we headed out on the bus for an hour or two, with only one drama — being pulled over by the police! Apparently our driver had swerved slightly to avoid a pothole, and in the process had driven over the lane line in the road, resulting in a $120 fine and losing his licence for a month! We put the hat around to help out, so hopefully things won’t be too bad for him – $120 is a *lot* of money here.

On the long boat

On the long boat

After a quick convenience stop along the way, we reached the spot on the river where we hopped on our long boat. What a lovely way to travel!

Jackfruit! Not as smelly as its cousin the Durian...

Jackfruit! Not as smelly as its cousin the Durian…

We had a bit of a walk through the fruit orchards on our way to lunch, seeing jackfruit trees, green papaya, and of course pomelo. Interestingly, a lot of the plants in these gardens are in pots rather than in the ground – at least, the smaller cumquat trees etc. Might have something to do with having a high rainfall?

Lunch was at one of the homestay places, which was a collection of buildings on stilts above the river. The food was nice and simple, rice and salad with some meat and spring rolls.

Bonsai garden

Bonsai garden

The next stop was a bonsai garden, where we tried snake wine (yes, rice wine/spirit sitting in a bottle with a dead snake in it – ewww!) or at least, some people did!

Snake wine

Snake wine

This place also had a pet snake (possibly a carpet python?) as well as the usual dogs and cats, so the more adventurous of us had a chance to pose with Monty, the 35kg snake. Gorgeous!

Monty

Monty

Then we were able to take a leaf out of the locals’ book, relaxing in a hammock in the shade while it is hottest… lovely. We are pretty keen to get a pair of hammocks when we get home!

On the sampan

On the sampan

The final activity for the day was to be paddled down to our homestay in small sampans, rowed by local ladies. This was because the tide had lowered and out bigger boat couldn’t get through. Quite a relaxing afternoon.

The river

The river

The homestay was a large farmhouse along the river where the upper level had been converted into a dormitory. There were Western loos and cold showers, but no aircon! Thank goodness for fans, as the weather is still very hot and sticky here. We spent the late afternoon relaxing in the outdoor area in the shade, and then had a quick cooking class to make another form of spring roll, this one a small, thin one which is deep fried.

Cooking class

Cooking class

Dinner was amazing. Like pretty much all the meals we’ve had, we were all stuffed even before the rice came out! We started with the spring rolls, sweet potato chips, and a huge prawn each, and then moved onto elephant-ear fish which we ate in spring-roll style, wrapped in rice paper with lettuce and herbs. After dinner we played a drinking game with the iniquitous rice wine… ick! Too strong and aniseed-y for my taste.

Mrs Moy and her great-granddaughter

Mrs Moy and her great-granddaughter

We also had some time talking with nearly-80-year-old Mrs Moy (Mrs Ten), who has seen so many changes in the country. It was interesting to find out a bit more about Vietnamese culture, such as how wives must go to their husband’s family’s house, even now, rather than staying near her parents. She said it is sad to have a daughter, because you always know you will lose her. She also mentioned that she was taught elements of Western culture and cooking from the cooperative who oversees the homestays, so that they make the traditional Vietnamese food more appealing to the Western palate. I had thought that apart from putting extra forks and spoons on the table, we were getting pretty standard traditional food, but apparently they tweak it a little to cater to the visitors, such as adding more meat to the dish (Vietnamese people will eat a lot less meat than we do, getting more of their protein from vegetables).

Bedtime was interesting – since we were on the top floor, it was quite warm! We had the fans going, and all the windows were wide open to catch any breeze possible, so we were sleeping under mosquito net canopies. I think most of us were too hot to sleep very well, but we all managed a little sleep once it was cooler in the early hours of the morning.

 

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