Okay, so Cairo for two ladies on their own is a bit of a minefield. After being dropped off in the middle of “downtown” by our friendly taxi driver, we must have had “I am gullible” tattooed on our foreheads. We were befriended by men left right and centre, who wanted to “show us the way” to wherever we were going, which always happened to be right past their brother/cousin/dog’s aunty’s hairdresser’s shop. Since we didn’t have anything planned, we generally went along with it, drinking tea, buying jewellery etc.
We only really had one which went a bit too far. When in a perfume/papyrus shop down an alleyway, the proprietors told us there was a “doctor” who was selling a special magic oil. He was only in Cairo for a few days, and lucky us, he was available to show us how the massage oil worked! Since he said he would massage the neck (and we were sore from our long-haul in cattle class) we acquiesced. However, he decided that the neck actually extends far below the t-shirt line and wanted to massage lower back and around to the tummy! We decided that this wasn’t on and wanted to leave, but ended up buying various items we’d already expressed interest in as the guys were a bit aggressive at this point. One even “escorted” me to the ATM as I’d run out of money already, and then to add insult to injury, asked me for baksheesh on the way back!
After this episode, we were pretty careful about where our “assistants” led us, and went to one more perfume shop, but on the main street this time! These guys had the best line in compliments ever – apparently we were worth millions of camels!

We stopped into McD’s to use the facilities and were amazed at the local speciality – a “McArabiyya”! Basically a cross between a kebab and a burger – bizarre.

We decided to see a bit more of Cairo by walking back to our hotel – a bad idea since a lot of the backstreets weren’t marked on our map! We took the scenic route – across the Nile and past the Eye Hospital. After being given directions to yet anther papyrus shop, we decided to admit defeat and took a taxi back to the hotel.
