Day 4 – Berlin to Prague

The trains here are pretty easy to navigate – the hardest thing is that you actually need to go to a station ticket office to get a reservation to use for the international trains (like the Berlin – Prague one we were catching) if you have a Eurail pass. However, since the pass itself cost us 279euro, and the return trip from Berlin to Prague alone costs 200euro, I was pretty happy for that slight inconvenience!

vending machine

The Berlin HBF is huge, but it’s well signed, so relatively easy to find the place you want, and there are diagrams for each train so you know which section of the platform to wait at! We found snacks before getting on the train – delicious fresh salads and fruit salads, amazing-looking fruit bread for D, and some ultra strong coffees. I had the first Chai Latte I’ve had here, and it was deluxe! Very spicy and delish. And hey, they have books in the vending machines!

The train was pretty uneventful, but we saw a few more examples of Germany’s dedication to renewable energy, this time wind farms. The scenery started getting incredibly picturesque by the time we reached the Czech border just south of Dresden, with steep river valleys, a ruined castle or two in the distance, and lots of old buildings.

Prague Castle

Prague looks pretty much exactly as I’d envisioned. Lots of old, ornate buildings and old, ornate churches and old, ornate theatres etc etc. We wandered out for a reconnoitre along the river, found the iconic Charles Bridge and had a walk to the other side, fortified in the freezing cold by a nice cup of hot wine! Not quite as strong as the stuff in Berlin, but it certainly helps warm things up.

Prague

For dinner we checked out the next door restaurant, which happens to be the breakfast room of the hotel as well! Yummy, cheap food: I had the duck breast (wow!) and D had a delicious traditional ribs and a local beer. ($1.50 beer!!)

Duck!

 

Riiiiibs

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Berlin Day 3

Segways!Day three of Berlin was a lot more “organised”, but this meant we were able to tick off many of the “must see”s off our lists. We started out with a Segway tour, which lasted a mammoth 4 hours!

The Segways were very cool, and pretty easy to drive. We started off with a quick introductory lesson which started with many wobbles but soon smoothed out into zooming around the platz in preparation for hitting the streets. Navigating the streets wasn’t as tricky as it sounds, as long as there are enough of you to make up a lane of traffic – it was a bit scary being followed by a bus!

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Hello Berlin! Days 1 & 2

I’m back in Germany again. It’s one of those things – two of my cousins happen to be here at the moment, and my friend D said “I’m in Europe for New Year’s… want to meet me in Germany in January?”

This trip has had the shortest preparation period of all the international trips I’ve taken – flights booked a month beforehand, hotels even less, and barely any research done on my destinations! Since its both D and my birthdays on this trip, we decided to make it extra-special by taking the train down to Prague for our birthdays, and we’ll be heading down there tomorrow. The holiday is bookended by a few days exploring Berlin, a city I’ve not been to before, but I’ve been assured by all who have, that it is fantastic! So far it’s been pretty good!

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Wellington, interrupted

So after a few days here we’ve been exploring Wellington at a much less frenetic pace than we usually do! Since we’re staying with friends we’re tending to get up slowly and potter around a bit before heading out for lunch and doing some wandering.

The central city has some great lunch specials, with most of the pubs and restaurants doing a $10-$15 menu. We’ve tried out the $10 pub grub at The Four Kings, $12 curry at Great India, $15 pub grub at The Grand. Yum! All very recommended.

I’ve been vaguely looking for a warm wooly coat, and thought NZ would be the place to be, but even though we’ve done a few circuits of the shopping strips and I haven’t found the perfect one. I did pick up a cute pair of purple and black heeled ankle boots though, and some books and souvenirs in the form of chocolate.

Yesterday we headed out of the city on the windy roads through the mountains (hold onto your hats!) to the wine region to the north, stopping off in Greytown to browse through the boutiques, handcrafted cupcake and confectionary shop and art galleries. The next stop was Martinborough, where we were a bit too late to do much wine tasting, but we did stop off at one winery to try the local offerings and picked up a dessert white and a red. Hopefully we’ll be able to get them home safe and sound!

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Hello again, New Zealand

We landed in Wellington late yesterday afternoon after a quick two-day catching-up-with-friends stopover in Melbourne. As usual, that involved a lot of shopping and tasty food.

The shopping wasn’t terribly successful this trip, mainly being focused on fruitlessly searching various ALDIs in the vicinity of wherever we happened to be, for the elusive Expressi machine, one of those newish pod coffee machines, made even more attractive because of its $79 price tag and the availability of chai latte and hot chocolate pods as well as the boring coffee varieties. Since Perth doesn’t have ALDI, we thought we’d buy one and send it home in the post.

No luck though. Three ALDIs and no machine. Sigh.

In any case, we were fortified in our struggle with the awesome culinary delights of D’Lish Fish, a yummy fish’n’chippery in Port Melbourne who does gluten free batter, the unparalleled  Brunetti for patisserie, and delicious Asian fusion restaurant Gingerboy

And on to New Zealand! Almost. The flight was deleted by an hour and a half, which gave us ample time to have breakfast and consider unwise duty free choices at the airport, before hopping onto the little 320 to jump the ditch. (It looked really little when the qantas A380 swanned past!) We were sitting at the back of the plane behind a family who seemed to spend the entire 3.5 hours wrestling each other in the aisle. Apart from that, and some turbulence (perhaps the pilots didn’t appreciate their wrestling either) the flight was pretty uneventful.

Landing at Wellington was a bit nerve-wracking, mainly because the landing strip starts at the shoreline, so a lot of the final descent is over water. All you can see is the water getting closer, only relieved by some random mountains looking pretty close! All this, and it was a very smooth landing.

Baggage and customs check was easy (and the sniffer puppy dogs didn’t really want cuddles, sadly) and we were out into the brisk Aotearoan air.

Wellington hasn’t changed much since the last time we were here. Lots of different styles of houses all mixed in, the CBD isn’t huge, and all cupped into a valley between hills facing the Cook Strait.

We stopped in for groceries at New World which we’d stayed next to on our last visit (and saw the wine we’d had at Gingerboy last night much cheaper than in Australia!) and found delicacies like peanut butter icecream and lots of varieties of gluten free bread.

Next stop was our mates S and A’s place, where we’re staying. They’re right in the middle of the action here, and we haven’t seen them for about six months, when they moved over here.

We gave into our weakness for Hell Pizza for dinner, and washed it down with local brews – Rennaissance chocolate stout for R and Isaac’s Winter Cider for moi. Tasty!

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London Day 8 – Last day!

Another busy day of cramming sightseeing activities in.

We began the day by wandering through Hyde Park again, but this time on a eastwards journey, strolling past more squirrels, people riding horses, and pigeons, and stopping on Oxford St to pick up more (more!!) souvenirs for people at home (we’re really working hard to keep the economy going here!) Then headed down to Piccadilly Circus to buy tickets to the show we were planning on seeing tonight with L and T: Jersey Boys. On the way we ticked off another must-do: riding on a red double decker bus!

Our next goal was to walk down through Trafalgar Square and along Whitehall to eyeball Downing Street, the Houses of Parliament and Westminster Abbey, although the last had to be put off until after lunch, as we met A at a pub nearby for a bite to eat.

After fortifying ourselves with a Caesar salad and meat pie respectively, we headed off to wonder at Westminster Abbey. While I was initially a bit reluctant to pay the sixteen pounds entrance fee, it was really amazing. As well as the tombs of various monarchs, there were memorials to many of Britain’s noteworthy writers and poets, such as Shakespeare and Jane Austen, as well as scientists like Darwin and Newton. Plus the building itself is amazing, with hugely high carved ceilings and stone floors worn down with millions of feet over hundreds of years.

Plus, while we were wandering about, I bumped into two ex-students, M and M who are currently on a post-school junket around Europe from the sounds of things, staying with relatives here and there. A junket that involves coming and seeing cultural history like Westminster Abbey – pretty classy!

Then it was time to meet L and T for dinner and the show. We tried an Indian place near the Prince Edward Theatre, and while the food was good, it took them forever to bring it (we were in a bit of a hurry to get to the show) and then they asked us for a tip after paying for the meal! A bit rich…

The show itself was amazing. I wasn’t terribly familiar with The Four Seasons, but knew a few of their songs. The story itself was interesting, looking at the relationships and relationship breakdowns in the group over the years, and their rise to fame. The singing was fantastic! Apparently the guy playing Frankie Valli has a cd out, so it’d be worthwhile looking him up – a really amazing voice. The rest of the cast were great too – the actor playing Tommy Devito was fabulous and really played the crowd. This was needed, as he was the first of the revolving “narrators” of the story.

The staging really blew me away. They had a pretty simple set, but with various signs and props that came down from the roof or popped up from the floor, and lighting was used effectively, too. One scene we “joined them on stage”, as the back of the stage was lit with flashing bulbs to simulate a crowd, and the actors played to the back, with hot spotlights on us being “back stage”. Really really effective. It was a great show and I was sorry we’d not made it to more shows while we were here!

Back at the hotel we started packing for the trip home tomorrow. Even with an extra small case and Emirates’ generous 30kg/pp allowance we’re going to be squeezing it a bit – we weighed the bags and between us we have 55kg!

 

 

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London Day 7

Today was started with a quick phone call to Emirates to see if we could snag a last-minute points upgrade on one of the legs on our homeward trip, and YAY even though they weren’t available on the online upgrade, they had two available on the phone. Goodbye frequent flyer points, hello business class on the A380! Back to economy for the long-haul leg, but I’m happy to get part-way there.

The rest of the day was spent being extremely touristy – we started out walking through Green Park to Buckingham Palace for the Changing of the Guards, would you believe! It was packed out, and people kept trying to squeeze in closer to the walls, even though when they were squeezing in front of us, all they could see was a better view of the pillar in front of the wall!

Even so, the ceremony and music and excitement in the air made it a fun occasion. We weren’t intrigued enough though, to hang around for the band’s third track after all the ceremonial walking around a lot, so we said hello to a few police people on horses and wandered off again.

 

Next destination of all true tourists – Harrods. I was pretty impressed. They had sports cars (of course), lots of big name stuff, and an entire hall devoted to chocolate and tea. Plus a chocolate cafe! What’s not to like? Well, the prices were certainly astronomical on some things – a pineapple for instance, was 14 pounds. Hmm. On the other hand, I cast my eye over the MAC cosmetics and I thought I saw that the eyeshadows were only 12 pounds – less than $20 when here they’re $32!

In any case, I picked up a few suitable “harrods” emblazoned gifts for people back home, and also found a set of the placemats from the gorgeous designs I mentioned the other day, at half price! They are the cheese-themed ones (not on the website – must be old stock) rather than the personality-plus-plus cows and pig ones I adored, but they’re still great! And heavy, as I found out after schlepping them around all day.

Next stop: The British Library to have a look at some cool books. We certainly found them – another Shakespeare First Folio, one of Jane Austen’s notebooks, the Magna Carta, one of the first Gutenberg bibles, some amazing old illuminated texts like more bibles and other sacred texts, and even the words to The Beatles’ “A Hard Day’s Night” as first written by John Lennon on one of Julian’s first birthday cards! No photos allowed unfortunately…

We headed back to the hotel to dump my Harrods plunder, then headed out to Fleet to visit cousin E again. After braving the commuter trains at rush hour, we met at a lovely pub, The Heron On The Lake, which unfortunately had only two ciders, both of which I could get at home. Nevertheless, a salubrious spot.

E took us back to her place for dinner, a yummy risotto. It was SO nice to have a home-cooked meal after eating out for so long! The bottle of red we shared also ensured a voluble evening, especially from me. I was particularly amazed at the treasured to be found in the Argos catalogue. Who would have thought you could get a Nerf automatic machine gun?? Three rounds a second! Pity you’d need a good few of the “dart” belts. I can just imagine someone with a bandolier-style belt filled with Nerf darts. Go ahead, make my day!

The trains were a lot quieter on the way back, but we managed to share a carriage with a drunken party of darts-players, strangely enough, who were waving a poster they’d nabbed stating “Go on, play darts!”. We all arrived back in London safe and sound!

 

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London Day 6

Since The Globe was apparently open again today we decided that was our main priority!

First we headed to the Tate Britain, as R wanted to visit the Pre-Raphaelites again, and there’s a handy ferry that goes Tate to Tate (the Tate Modern is the big ugly building right next to the Globe – handy!) The TB have reorganised since R was last there, and the Pre-Raphs weren’t handily located in one place, but mainly weren’t even hung! Waterhouse’s The Lady of Shalott, Rosetti’s Monna Vanna, Millais’ Ophelia (and Sargent’s Ellen Terry as Lady Macbeth which almost counts but not quite) were the only ones there!

We thought we’d not even get to see these ones, as when we were wandering through the early 20th Century gallery, we noticed the next room was blocked off as there was a film crew in there! Perfectly timed, though, as after a minute or two in discussion with the gallery attendant, we watched with big grins as the film crew dismantled their bits and pieces and let us in. I think we must have used up the bad museum/gallery mojo last week! (Touch wood!!!)

After drooling over the PreRaphs, we wandered through to the Romantics exhibition, which has a LOT of Turner, as well as one or two of his contemporaries here and there. This was really interesting, as I’d looked at Romanticism a bit at uni, but only as it related to literature, so the artistic interpretation was a new angle.

Then we walked down to the Thames to catch the ferry to Bankside, where the Tate Modern and The Globe sit. We started talking to a lady who was walking a baby in a pram and a big puppy (who looked like a Bernese Mountain Dog – biiiiig puppy!) who was very excited that I wanted to give him cuddles. So much so that he managed to get out of the nose strap part of his collar, which caused no end of consternation. Whoops. Ah well, he was still attached to the lead and all was well in the end.

The ferry was a very civilised way of getting from A to B, floating gently through the water, watching the sights slip smoothly past.

The Globe was pretty much everything I’d expected. There’s a great exhibition inside the Centre which gives lots of details about Shakespeare’s life and how life and theatre worked in Elizabethan times, and how the Globe theatre works to keep a lot of detail of their productions authentic, like the costume design and construction. I was amazed that it was nearly 50 years between the founder’s first idea and the theatre being opened, despite it being an amazing idea. Why wasn’t there some kind of monument to Shakespeare in London, as he is such a notable figure in London’s history?

In any case, we went out to the theatre itself for the “tour”, which was a lady telling us a few things about how the building was built and that we weren’t allowed onto the stage, while we eyeballed a group of kids on an “education” tour who were allowed on the stage! Ah well, we did climb into the audience and sat in the in-demand middle tier of seating for a bit.

All eyes were drawn downwards as we walked through the “piazza” outside the theatre, as one of the early fundraising schemes was to carve donors’ names into the pavers. We saw, among many others, Vivien Leigh, Charlton Heston, Laurence Olivier, and even the Patrick Stewart Appreciation Society!

After saying goodbye to our guide, we plundered the gift shop. They have a lot of very cool things there, such as magnets and badges with great quotes on them, play-themed tshirts and mugs etc. I was very tempted by the blood-soaked “Macbeth” mug. I think that would have gone down a treat at morning tea at work, but the problem is always getting breakables home safe! Mugs are such a difficult shape…

Mid-afternoon we stopped for a hearty pub lunch at a “traditional” pub nearby, getting back onto the potato wagon well and truly with a bucketload of chips. What could I have been thinking, not eating any potato yesterday?

The rest of the day was pretty uneventful, catching up on the laundry again and heading over the road to a rival hotel restaurant for dinner and making plans for tomorrow. How many of the last-minute sights can we catch? There’s only two days left!

 

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London Day 5

Today we headed out of the city to catch up with my cousin E who’s lived in England for a good few years now.

We met at Hampton Court and headed off to visit Hampton Court Palace, home of Henry VIII, amongst others. Along with the palace, they also have extensive gardens, a maze, and even an ice skating rink and a carousel! What fun!

We wandered for a while, taking in the unseasonably early flowering bulbs that were raising their heads (hello daffodils!) and admiring the formal gardens which had just been replanted for spring, before deciding that if we wanted to admire gardens, Kew Gardens was probably the best bet, since it was nearby.

We stopped off at M&S for a picnic lunch on the way, and were sidetracked by the terribly interesting TK Maxx, home of many discounted clothes and accessories. We picked up a new carry-on case while we were there, as our various souvenir shopping bouts have maxed out our current bags!

Kew was pretty cold, but we managed to have our picnic lunch under the supervision of various seagulls who were desperate for our salad leftovers, before hightailing it into the gift shop to warm up and get (you guessed it) more pressies for people at home!

The rest of our gardens visit consisted of walking very briskly between the greenhouses to get into the warmth. The Princess of Wales Conservatory had about 10 different climactic areas with heaps of different plants – from cacti to ferns to carnivorous plants! The other greenhouse we spent time at was the Palm House, which as you’d expect, had LOTS of palms, plus a marine exhibit in the basement. It’s a pretty amazing building, not least because it was built over 150 years ago!

By the time afternoon tea time rolled around, it was getting dark and close to the time the park closed, so we hightailed it back to E’s car, accompanied by the sound of a helicopter doing laps of the sky above us. We weren’t sure if this was the Kew version of flicking the lights off and on again in a nightclub to get people to leave, or what. It certainly added to the urgency of finding an exit!

Then it was back on the tube to the hotel before taking a stroll up to Paddington Station to have sushi for dinner. The Yo Sushi place was just closing when we arrived, so their sushi was a bit dated. Nevertheless, it hit the spot, and we picked up fruit and yoghurt at M&S again for dessert. Kinda getting back to usual meal habits in preparation to heading home later this week…

 

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London Day 4 – Happy Birthday to me

After waking up to many birthday wishes and a Skype call from home, we celebrated my birthday by hitting the markets.

We started with Camden Markets, which were quite interesting to begin with, but then they seemed to be the same four or five shops repeated ad nauseum. There were some interesting Nepalese multi-coloured clothes which I liked, but they were the wrong shape for me, bajillions of goth-y shops with nice-looking corsets which had good busks and some spring steel (by the feel) to reinforce the lacing, but the merely spiral boning around the rest of the corset (too flimsy). Otherwise, lots of tshirts, souvenirs and belt buckle shops. Also random large horse statues!

We ate lunch here, fast food Mexican, overlooking the Camden Lock while sitting on Vespa seats (weird, yes) before having a quick look at some Doc Martens shops, then heading back onto the tube.

The next destination was to look at Tower Bridge and wander along the Thames to The Globe Theatre. The first part of this was easy – pretty hard to miss the Tower Bridge, really! The second part was complicated, partially because when we decided to walk over London Bridge to the other side of the Thames, the best bridge to return over was the Millennium Bridge.

One small note about the Millennium Bridge – it’s got open sides. We’ve talked about my fear of heights a bit before, right? What makes it worse – if I can see through the sides of whatever I’m walking across! Even so, the bridge was just wide enough and had enough decorative poles hanging off the side of it to make it manageable, even though I thought it wasn’t going to happen! A nice cupful of caramelised nuts at the beginning did help, I must admit.

Once we reached the other side, another challenge arose. The Globe was shut this weekend because of site works! What??? First the V&A closes the fashion exhibit, and now The Globe is closed, and on my birthday as well?? Argh! At least it’s open again next week, so I should hopefully be able to get there this trip. Phew.

Since the nearest tube station was near the Borough Market, we decided to wander up there and see what was happening. Although I don’t watch Market Kitchen religiously, it’s always fun to go somewhere you’ve seen on the telly, and it did always look like the markets had great food and drink!

We were pretty amazed at the wares being sold – from farm fresh “raw” milk, to cheese and home-cured sausages, to baked goods and mulled cider, we wandered with our mouths open. We tried the milk, I had some hot chai, some spiced mulled wine, and R tried a traditional pork pie. We saw gorgeously “food” themed ceramics and table linen from Richard Bramble, which was really eye-catching, but we didn’t think we could bring any more ceramic home without breaking some of it! As we were leaving, I spied Neal’s Yard Dairy, place of all good cheese. We tried a couple of different cheese and ended up buying some young brie and some slightly more aged Ardrahan, from Ireland. (Of course, not having a fridge in our hotel room means we’ve taken great pains to keep it cool, hanging the bag out the window from the window handles. Cross fingers that the squirrels we saw from the window earlier don’t take a liking to cheese!)

Since we were heading out to my birthday dinner at Pollen Street Social, it was time to head back to the hotel to freshen up.

Dinner was really, really lovely. I think it was the best dinner we’ve had on this trip, which is saying a lot! Not only is it a Michelin starred restaurant, it prides itself on “relaxed dining” – wear what you are comfortable in and eat what you want. Great, delicious, yummy food, attentive and friendly wait-staff and at least 2/3 of the clientele were wearing jeans. Gluten free was easy – R had let them know in advance so they’d organised GF bread and had made sure they could work with the menu.

We looked at the tasting menu, and while that was amazing, the two dishes we really liked on the a la carte menu weren’t included, so that was ruled out. We were started with an amuse bouche of olives and pork scratchings with two dips – a smoked cod and garlic, and a pear and vinegar. Delicious!

Then came our entrees. I chose the lightly smoked salmon, which was huge – the size of a respectable main course salmon fillet! It was barely smoked, and tasted close to sashimi, with a hint of smoke behind it. This was served with radish, creamed avocado and some little diced squares of something yummy. Deee-lish! R started with deer tartare, which he said was amazing as well.

We asked the sommelier to recommend wines for us, and she advised some whites for entree and reds for mains, as we were both having red meat.  It turns out her husband is Australian, so she was quite knowledgeable about Australian wines as well, which helped make us feel very at home.

The main meal for me was rack of lamb, which was divine, accompanied by aubergine and a few other yummy vegies. Really, really good, and the meat was melt-in-your-mouth good. R chose ox-cheek, which he was also in raptures about.

The dessert menu, while extensive, seemed more about cold dishes than a variety more suited to winter, but they were very delicious too. I had the “lemon meringue” which was lemon and lime meringue icecream. It tasted the way icecream cakes used to, back when they were more cream than “ice confection”! R’s rice pudding hit the spot too, and was much more suited to the season. We finished the meal with a serve of Jason Atherton’s chocolates, which were served from a large wooden box which opened out in layers like a fishing tackle or tool box! Lots of drama! And delicious, too, of course.

When we’d arrived the waitress gave me a key to a “special gift” at the end of the night, which was such a great idea. There was a bit of running around when we asked for the bill, because our waiter told us they had wanted to organise something gluten free for my goodbye gift, and they were SOOOO apologetic that they hadn’t organised a birthday cupcake for me to take home with me. (Hey, I was just happy they’d got bread!)  In the box we found “Breakfast on us”: two tiny little friands and a gourmet tea bag. What a lovely way to finish, and what a fabulous end to my birthday.

 

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