Singapore sojourn

We’re staying in a slightly different area of Singapore than where I’ve stayed before – at the Village Hotel in Bugis, really close to Arab St. The hotel looks to have spent a lot upgrading their public areas, and the pool is gorgeous – a half star shape, but the accommodation decor is pretty tired and we have a very odd-shaped room with only a tiny side window for natural light. A nice rainshower in the bathroom though, and the aircon works well, which are the main things!

We arrived mid-evening, and after getting from the airport and checking in, it was quite late, so we contented ourselves with a bit of a walk to get our bearings, find an ATM and then some necessities like water, cola and canned coffee.

In comparison to Vietnam, Singapore is very ordered. Out of habit, we stepped off the pavement at a narrow bit and started to walk on the road like everyone does in VN, before remembering where we were. All the traffic lights have pedestrian crossings, and people generally wait for them, and queues are pretty orderly.

Our first full day we had the good fortune to be able to catch up with D who came and had a long lunch with us at the Crystal Jade Chinese restaurant at Bugis Junction, telling us some tidbits about Singapore and making sure we knew how to get around. All being book fans, we managed to spend a solid amount of time in the Kinokuniya. D was amused at our habit of marvelling at new-to-us foods in the supermarket, since they’re obviously not new for him.

After bidding D a fond farewell, we headed back to the hotel to refresh before wandering out to R’s Mecca: The Auld Alliance bar. While they don’t *only* have whisky, it’s by far the most prevalent item on the extensive menu. I satisfied myself with a delicious Auld Alliance Smoky Kir Royale made with Cointreau and Billecart Salmon champers, while R tried a few of the whiskies on offer. We fortified ourselves with a delicious nibble of duck rillettes. Not a lot of non-alcoholic options on the menu, as you’d expect!

Once R had tried his fill, we toddled off to find some proper dinner, coming across an upscale burger bar that offered the option of GF buns. Hooray! I ordered the Classic American burger and fries. The pattie was delish, but the gf bun was quite dry, especially as I’d overlooked that the burger came with no sauce (?!) I ended up wrapping up half the bun for breakfast the next day, which was useful as the hotel doesn’t offer GF bread, and I’d not managed to source any yet.

As our hotel is right on Arab St, we spent our second morning wandering the area. I had forgotten the vast number of fabric shops lining the street, and only had vague memories of a trim shop… but it all came flooding back! I managed to avoid buying fabric (so far) but I dived into the sequin shop (Digvijay’s Sequins) with my eyes dazed by the bling. I came out with only two types of trim, in colours to match a costume I’m currently working on. So restrained!

Our next stop in the Tour of Singapore’s Bars was at the Atlas Bar, a huge luxe bar in the lobby of the neo-deco Parkview Square building. It’s focused mainly on gin, but has a pretty formidable list of other tipples, including champers (and even including some lovely non-alcoholic mocktails!) We came here for lunch, and thus fortified with a delicious cheese platter (with GF bread no less), we tried a couple of cocktails. I had an Old Tom & Tonic, followed by a Singaporean gin, Tanglin Orchid Gin with Mediterranean tonic. R started with a cocktail, followed by a different Singaporean gin with tonic.

Thus mellowed, we needed a bit of a nap, so only ventured out again to fortify ourselves with dinner. We decided to try one of the Turkish places off Arab Street, and settled on Cappa Docia cafe for kebab. Mine was the lamb with eggplant (no surprise) and R had a lamb beyti kebab (kofta wrapped in flatbread – looked like a big delicious sausage roll!). After Vietnam, where food was so incredibly cheap, we keep being surprised by the cost of restaurant meals here. Good thing we’re heading home soon and can self-cater again!

Our final full day started off with a visit to the gorgeous Gardens by the Bay, as R hadn’t been there before and I thought he’d love the Cloud Forest and the Super Tree grove (with the Skywalk walkway around the treetops). We took a Gojek ride, driven by a fabulous woman who gave us all sorts of tips, like that there is a chicken shortage at the moment in Singapore because Malaysia has stopped selling live chickens to them!

After being dropped off, we wandered through the gardens to the domes and the Super Trees. We decided on the Super Trees first since it was late morning and would be even sunnier later. The Super Trees are amazing, vertical gardens a couple of storeys high, and the Skywalk meanders through the tops of them. Now you all know how much I adore heights, and this walkway is my favourite kind of heights – narrow and open and you can see right through it on the right angle. Excellent.

I made my way out of the lift and stopped as soon as the platform narrowed… but I didn’t want to stop R from accomplishing the walk, so I ended up closing my eyes, and gripping the railing with one hand and him with the other, I managed to walk all the way around. Luckily it wasn’t too busy and nobody needed to get past us, as I was going pretty slowly! I did open my eyes (and look only up!) at the halfway point. Glorious (upwards) views!

Next up was the Cloud Forest dome. Again, you take a lift to the top, and wander down through walkways around the manufactured “mountain”. It’s 7 storeys tall and takes visitors through various types of cool-climate plants most people in Singapore wouldn’t normally see (apart from the masses of orchids, which are Singapore’s national flower.) I loved the sign at the carnivorous plants area. The heights here are even taller than the Skywalk, but since it doesn’t get as far away from the “mountain”, it’s not so bad. I just felt thankful I wasn’t one of the teachers trying to corral the various school groups around!

On our way back, we stopped at Entre-Nous Creperie, a French cafe boasting crepes and buckwheat galettes – so I could have a fix of GF galettes. I had the delicious set menu of cheese, egg and ham galette, and then a salted caramel crepe (with a galette substituted for the crepe). This meal was deliciously accompanied by French cidre. Fruity with a dry finish – delish.

R wanted to visit another whisky bar that evening, so we caught a bus down North Bridge Road and stopped into Swan Song on the waterfront. Unfortunately their landlord is renovating the building so we couldn’t open the windows to see the river, but it would be a great spot when the renos finish. As it was, the bar is cosy and atmospheric, with the de rigeur leather armchairs and couches. Even though they’re a whisky bar, they did have one gin, so I had a taste of the Singaporean pandan and coconut-infused gin. Phew! I’ve had more booze in this four-day visit than I have in the entire rest of the three-week trip!

Our final morning, we popped back to Arab Street so I could pick up a few more sparklies, and then I unearthed a burnt orange glitter chiffon at one of the fabric shops, so I grabbed enough for a dance skirt, also picking up enough shed glitter on our skin that both of us are still glittery now!

We were also feeling that we’d missed out on eating (how could we possibly have missed eating anything?? I hear you ask — hear me out!) one of the most famous eating places in Singapore – the hawker centres! We walked up to the Food Center in Bugis, right on the busy lunchtime, and wandered until we found a table, then took turns going to choose food. I found a laksa place and bought some sugarcane juice on my way back to the table, and started eating while R went to collect his. An older lady sat down in R’s spot and repeatedly told me that it was the lunch hour, so I couldn’t have the whole table. I don’t think she believed that my husband even existed, as she finished her meal and left before he even came back with his soup!

We finished our time dodging through the Bugis markets picking up a few souvenirs, before catching a taxi to the airport. I’d hoped to visit Jewel, the big new shopping centre and indoor waterfall, but didn’t realise you couldn’t get there from airside, and the train between terminals that goes through it isn’t running at the moment as Terminal 2 is under renovations. Next time!

Our flight home was uneventful, as preferred, and we were welcomed enthusiastically home by the furry babies who tried to tell us they were lonely without us. Nice to be back in our own bed, but also lovely to have been travelling again.

What’s next, I wonder?