Train to Kanchanaburi
Next after Bangkok, we headed out to the countryside (well, it’s all relative) to Kanchanaburi, the home of the Bridge over the River Kwai. We decided that to do it properly, we should take the train, and so we hopped onto the slow 3rd class passenger train (no aircon) at Bangkok Thonburi station (otherwise known as Bangkok Noi – small).
The station took R aback somewhat, as he was getting used to Bangkok’s flashiness, and Noi was certainly not that. The train was even less flashy, with hard seats and the occasional fan and open window providing the “aircon”.
The train was great fun though. People wandered through the train selling snacks and drinks (cheapest green curry ever at 40c/serve!) and even delivered some meals through the windows rather than bothering to get onboard. We were joined by many cheapskate tourists like ourselves, locals and even a few monks. I guess $4 for a 150km train ride is good enough for everyone!
We arrived in Kanchanaburi and dragged our luggage a little further than was comfortable to the P&P Place, along the tourist strip, past many, many bars and massage places. P&P is a good budget guesthouse, with ensuite rooms including a fridge and a TV, and within walking distance of most of the tourist areas.
The Bridge
Our first evening we wandered up the main tourist drag a bit, then down to the Bridge, then back up to have dinner at the cheap place across from the guesthouse, which boasted craft beers… which were “inspired” by Thailand, but made in Australia. Huh. Cheap eats though, although I’m starting to get a little over rice noodles.
The next morning we were picked up for our overnight stay at Elephant Haven Sanctuary in Sai Yok. We shared the minibus with a family from Italy, who we later found out were also staying at the sanctuary overnight.
Me and Elephant
We chose Elephant Haven to visit because we did some research into the elephant “sanctuaries” in Thailand and this one seemed to be the only one backed up by animal rights organisations and also they don’t allow any riding of the elephants, even in the water, like some do.
Elephant wandering by the river
The elephants were amazing, no doubt about it. While here, you get to feed them, prepare food (making banana-rice balls so the older ones who don’t have many teeth left can still eat, and chopping melons) and feeding them. We went for walks with them through the forest and they had eating time in the grass field as well as walking along the river, playing in the mud pools and also washing/swimming in the river.
Walking with Elephants
These elephants are all former circus/show/riding elephants, and because of their training, they can’t be put back into the wild. This sanctuary exists so that they can be retired and cared for without having to work. There are elephants from 20-something to 61 years old, so the sanctuary are doing their best to free elephants from the other camps, not only taking those who are too old to work.
The accommodation at the sanctuary is a basic cabin (mattresses on the floor with a mosquito net and a fan, and a little toilet and shower room attached). Very “rustic”!
One great thing about being an “overnighter” was seeing the elephants when not many people were around. One of them snuck into the rice-ball-making area and started eating the rice bran, and one of the others wandered into the undercover seating area to check out whether people had left any food for them. They wandered around freely like giant dogs would, and that was awesome.
We also made coconut sticky rice steamed in bamboo, which was cool
The only issue I had was that there were so many people visiting (~40 on the first day and 50+ on the second day), that it felt artificial at times. We were visiting at the height of high season, so maybe in the low season you get a quieter, more personal experience. Sometimes it felt like with so many people there, it’s a bit like the elephants are still putting on a show with their daily “routines”. (And I got social-fatigue and needed some alone time after being with such big groups all day!)
However, none of the elephants are forced to participate in the activities, which is the best thing. They tend to follow their stomachs so they’re pretty much all there for the feeding sessions and the grass field walk, but only some of them come to the mud baths or the river, depending, and when they’re there, they choose whether they want to play in the mud, or go for a swim (the first day was cold, so none wanted a mud bath, and only a couple went into the river, but the second day, even though it was cold, the mud was flying, and about four elephants went swimming).
R totally loved the elephant park. I was absolutely shattered with tiredness by the time we got back to Kanchanaburi, and needed a quiet day for Day 3. We wandered along the tourist strip, had a massage, browsed the two secondhand bookshops, had lunch at The Library Cafe, which was a brand new dessert cafe (there were a couple of savoury options on the menu, so it wasn’t icecream for lunch this time), and then had a nap in the afternoon.
We also visited the Death Railway
Our final evening was spent at the night food market near the bus station, where we sampled lots of yummy food from carts, like sushi, marshmallow pancakes, meatballs-onna-stick, more noodles, and of course my favourite: mango with sticky rice.
On the back of a moped taxi
Our excitement for the evening came when we realised there were no sidecar or songtheow taxis around, and so we accepted a ride from a moped taxi. Both of us on the back of a little moped was a little exciting! At least we were heavy enough that the driver wasn’t able to go very fast, so we weren’t in any danger of falling off!
To end our Thailand sojourn, we took the train back to Bangkok (a very early start to the day!) then headed to the airport in an “almost” taxi – it had the taxi paint job, but no sign on the side, badging on the roof or any sign of a meter. Ah well, we got there for a reasonable price, and the aircon worked well, which is a solid plus. Next stop: Hanoi!
Two Weeks Away 